Marseille is a train hub. It’s convenient to go to surrounding areas.
My Interrail card lets me go anywhere in Europe by train. Most of the journeys are free. For busy services, such as the TGV train, you have to pay a seat reservation fee. This varies but is usually less than €10.
Today’s trip was to Avignon, about 90 minutes by train.
Avignon is also known as The City of the Popes. In the 1300s, seven successive popes lived in Avignon. It remained that way until the French Revolution, when it became part of France.
Initially, I was going to visit Avignon on another day. I changed the day when I learnt Saturday was a big market day. The markets can close early. So I headed towards them.
On the way, I saw the tourist office and popped in. Generally, I don’t go into tourist offices. Years ago, before the internet and smartphones, I’d always go to a tourist office to pick up a paper map and ask for advice about accommodation, public transport and recommendations for places to visit. Nowadays, it’s less necessary.
However, I belatedly went to the tourist office in Arles the other day. I found them very useful. For one thing, if I’d gone there first, I’d have learnt that there’s a city pass that gives you access to most of the popular sites. Instead, I had paid for each site individually, which was more expensive.
On the way to the markets, I came across what looked like a church. I entered (it was free) and it had some Egyptian and Roman statues.
On the way to the markets, I came across what looked like a church. I entered (it was free) and it had some Egyptian and Roman statues.
I was struck by this odd-looking statue.
It turned out to be unique. The description said:
Statue of a fabulous androphagous (devouring a human being), ithyphallic (with an erect penis) creature. Resembling both a lion and a canid [canine], it is improperly called the “Tarasque of Noves” due to its association with the monster subdued by Saint Martha. Only the right arm and left foot of the victim remain. The seated carnivore rests, claws extended, on two bearded, virile heads with closed eyes, which resemble masks.
The highly complex representation is unique (a piece without known parallels) and evokes traditional Celtic beliefs: it symbolizes death through the engulfment of the victim. Conversely, the erect phallus manifests the belief in another form of life, while the masks, linked to ancestor worship, mark the continuity of generations.
After a brief walk around the hall, I continued to the markets. The food market was indoors. It was full of fresh produce. I bought some olives and the herby roasted almonds I had the other day in Arles.
My next stop was the Palais des Papes.
This is always very enjoyable to read about the adventures that other people have