Architecturally, the Cathedral of La Major is apparently “Byzantine-Revival with Romanesque influences”. It was built in the 19th century after nearly 200 years without any new cathedrals being built in France.
At the time, Marseille was expanding economically. The city developed quickly and its population grew. The infrastructure was modernised to support the expansion of its port and other commercial activities.
The cathedral, completed in 1893 after 40 years of construction, was situated near a port so that it would be one of the first buildings seen by ships docking in Marseille.
I don’t know why but I love religious buildings. There is something unique about them. The grandeur of cathedrals gives us a flavour of the role the church once played in society for hundreds of years. As a comparison, I think of our current grand buildings. They’re usually occupied by financial or other large institutions. Grand buildings and power seem to go hand-in-hand. It’s only the occupier that changes.
Like all the churches I’ve visited in France, this one was free. When I visited Notre-Dame in Paris, I read something about there being some fundamental objection to charging people to visit churches. Just about every other country I’ve visited on this trip doesn’t hesitate to take their pound of flesh before you enter their churches.
I was surprised that there weren’t many visitors inside the church. It was silent. I lit a candle and sat peacefully for a while, remembering loved ones, both with us and gone.
On leaving, I sat by the harbour. At one point there were three gliders circling over the water then three water planes. I followed the harbour around pass the spectacular Mucem building and ended up where I usually do — at Vieux-Port, the Old Port. This time I’d reached it from the opposite side.
This was my route today as tracked by my GPS app.
I’d covered a lot of Marseille. It started in Les Docks, went on to La Vieille Charité and the cathedral then finished at the Old Port. At one point, the GPS is inaccurate because I appear to be walking on water!
