On my guided sightseeing trip with Jithu, he also took me to Jew Town in Kochi (aka Cochin).
History
Jewish settlers came to India as early as the 1st Century. Following floods and persecution by Portuguese colonists, Jews moved to Kochi in the 14th Century. They were welcomed by the Raja at the time. He gave them land near Mattancherry Palace. This area developed into what is now called Jew Town.
Under the protection of the Rajas, the Jewish community flourished in the 16th Century. The Paradesi Synagogue was built then. Jew Town itself became a thriving commercial centre, specialising in the spice trade, timber, and antiques.
The Dutch captured Kochi in 1663, generally maintaining good relations with the Jewish community.
The British period (from 1795) saw continued Jewish presence but there were gradual demographic changes. The community was divided into two groups:
- “White Jews”: Paradesi — primarily of European/Middle Eastern origin.
- “Black Jews”: Malabari — earlier settlers who had assimilated more with local culture.
In the 20th Century, the Jewish community reached its peak in Kochi. There were about 2,000 Jews. Most of them moved to Israel after it was established in 1948. The population shrunk, leaving only a few elderly residents. Today there are very Jews remaining in Kochi. But the Paradesi Synagogue remains a major landmark.
It seems strange to me that Jews settled in India and lived for centuries. It was one of the few places they didn’t experience antisemitism.
Jew Town now is filled with cafes and shops selling antiques, perfume, and spices to tourists. In the past, when the area was a thriving spice centre, Jithu worked there.
Despite its conversion to a tourist area, Jew Town stands as a testament to Kerala’s religious tolerance and multicultural heritage.
Clock tower
Adjacent to the synagogue is a clock tower. It was constructed in 1760 by a Jewish businessman Ezekiel Rahabi.
The clock tower, about 14m high, has four faces with numerals in Latin, Hebrew, Malayalam and one side blank. The dial facing the Maharaja’s palace has Malayalam numerals. The one facing the Synagogue is Hebrew. The third one is Roman.
World records
For reasons unclear to me, there were three world record breaking items in Jew Town.
The first is the uruli (cooking vessel). This is about 3.5m in diameter and weighs over 3000kg. It was made by craftsmen in Kerala from a single cast in 2004.
The second is a giant perrfume bottle. Standing 3m tall, it holds a few thousand litres of perfume.
The third is a giant incense stick! It took two months to make. I noted its ingredients: sandal powder, sandal essential oil, gum powder, natural resin water, and kekar wood. It weighs 412kg, is 21m long and would burn for more than a month.
